Hello, Goodbye Gypsy

I like to listen to the Beatles on my ipod while walking through the city. I don't know if its the magic mushroom lyrics or upbeat tune coupled with the excercise of walking that makes my brain leak serotonin. Although people back home are really surprised that I scour the city alone, I am in fact not alone. I have John, Paul, George and Ringo with me. They love Izmir...although they're always on acid, we have a goodtime.

Walking through the streets of Izmir always offers something new. On one corner a man is selling simit, a type of pretzelly thing covered with seeds, generally eaten at breakfast. Next to him, a man with all types of different jewelry probably made by himself. Evil eye bracelets, turquoise rings, leather bands. As I keep walking down the street, I finally find the cambio! I have been looking for this place! It's where I can go to exchange my dollar for lira. Today the dollar was up...a great day for shopping. It's like all of Izmir is on sale..for me anyway.

Some days I like to just go to Alsancak for no particular reason. Its busy and exciting and beautiful. Walking seaside reminds me much of Ocean Drive in South Beach and makes me feel at home. This feeling of nostalgia is abruptly interrupted when a gypsy walks up to me and takes my hand. She insists on reading my palm, even after I repeatedly express my inability to speak Turkish. I manage to understand I am going to have two babies and then in perfect English she said "Give me money." I laughed and handed her one lira. She said "No, On lira." Which means ten. I laughed again and said "Take it or leave it." She took it and then she let me snap her picture.

I sometimes stop at a bar or restaurant by the sea and have an Efes or glass of red wine. Its relaxing after a day of walking and gypsies. I breathe in the salt sea air and take advantage of a nearby fan. Once I'm cool enough, I pay and resume walking. Depending on the condition of my stomach and my underpants, I either walk to the park or find the train. Today I decided to make it an early day. I head back to the train via Konak. On the way there, in front of the clock tower, I see men with horrific pictures of bloody, injured people some children and it breaks my heart. All the signs are in Turkish, naturally, but I read something about Israel and Gaza. All the men holding these giant pictures of death are waving the Gaza flag. One man had it tied around his neck like a cape. Strange I'm seeing this. My dad just told me last night about some conflict. Upon my own research, I learned that Turkey and other countries are trying to free Gaza and in doing so, they are sending a bunch of ships from Istanbul. Somewhere around Cyprus, Israeli's attacked the ship killing I think nine Turkish people. I'm not too aware of what else is going on but I'm sure this was related.

I finally make it to through the spectacle and walk down the metro station stairs. One of my favorite moments of the day is right as the subway is pulling up to my stop. The surge of cool air pushed into the terminal blows over my whole body. After a long day of walking through the treacherous heat and broiling sunlight, this brush with oxygen is quite a treat. I manage to find a seat and don't get up for anyone. I am selfish today. I sit and stare blankly out the window reflecting on the images I just saw and wonder what the current events with hold for Turkey and my stay here.